chrispy61
51 posts
Joined: 08/12/2005 22:27:39
Location: Torquay United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fires up the dies
if there is an ignition module of somthing check that. sounds more like ur loosing the spark if uve bypassed the relay!
Posted: May 15, 2006 08:20 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Electronic ignition
All I can suggest is you put the standard parts back in the distributor and try again. Hope you've still got them! I think your problem is more likely damp or poor connections, but you've got to rule out the electronic ignition module first.
Posted: Dec 16, 2013 06:52 AM
Roobz
223 posts
Joined: 15/12/2005 01:31:36
Location: Redbridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
How to mod the distributer
MEGAJOLT is a programable igntion system that uses ford EDIS4 (electronis distibuterless igniton system (4 cylinder)) parts to do away with the distributer.
its by far the best ignition you can fit.. does away with the distributer so no more problems with the points and wet weather wont effect it in the slightest (can even work under water) all thats needed are a few ford parts and the actual Megajolt unit.
you basically plug it into a laptop and using ignition maps you set the perfect ignition for your spec engine. engines in standard form or even highly tuned it doesnt matter at all. it also gives a better spark and uses "wasted spark" people claim it makes there engines alot smoother and starting no matter the weather is simple.
i think this might make it easyer to understand http://www.minifinity.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=TechLibrary&file=doku&id=converting_to_megajolt_mappable_ingition
Posted: Dec 01, 2007 11:02 PM
Ray
5 posts
Joined: 02/04/2008 20:41:54
Location: Biggleswade United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Engine Won't Start When Hot
Good morning, I have just purchased a 1990 Check Mate,(to add to my collection) The car has a problem which has got me stumped..... Car starts and runs fine until the engine is switched off if left for a couple of mins it restarts no problem but leave it for 10 - 20 mins it refuses to start until it cools after a couple of hours. I have replaced the electronic ignition module but still the problem is there ( advised by the AA this was the problem). Could it be fuel evaporation? Should there be a heat sheild fitted to the carb? Any Ideas???
Posted: Apr 11, 2008 10:17 AM
Alex
1 posts
Joined: 06/05/2005 19:11:00
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
SPI Cooper won't start
It has been a long while since under the bonnet of a car. My 93 Cooper SPI when I turn the ignition key the relay module just buzzes. Two of the relay flap like mad. Is this ECU, the relay module or sensors any help would be appreciated or ideas on tracking it down Alex
Posted: May 06, 2005 07:18 PM
Chris
332 posts
Joined: 04/05/2006 21:28:31
Location: Mid Calder United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hot Coil
I've emailed Aldon just to see if their unit can take a high inrush current, I supsect it can but I'll let you know for sure.
Just had a phonecall from Aldon, despite my email address giving them problems they gave it a few days and took to making a personal phonecall to tell me what I asked, which is quite impressive service.
They say that their Igniter system is designed for non-ballasted systems and the only coil they sell with it is a non-ballasted coil, a high resistance coil.
As I suspected the electronic ignition module will stand up to a low resistance ballasted type coil being fitted, but will get very hot......they advise that as soon as you suspect a problem it should be corrected, but the unit itself doesn't just fail instantly in this situation.
It doesn't answer the question why the initial coil got hot if it was actually a high resistance one as supplied by them. But the igniter moduel and coil aren't always sold as a pair and so using a ballasted coil with the igniter system and non-ballasted wiring would be enough to generate the heat.
They also don't know of any condition where the igniter module could cause a coil failure which wasn't going to happen anyway. The current in the circuit is controlled not by the ignition module, or the points iof you still had them fitted, but by the coils own internal resistance and that of any ballast resistor in series with it.
Posted: May 22, 2006 06:41 PM
Electrical - Distributor Problem S.O.S.
Have you read the thread called 'Hot Coil' I wonder if you have a similar problem. As far as I know the type of distributor isn't as important to the engine as it is to the wiring harness, because I also have a 45D with electronic ignition module which I swapped from a 25D. The ignition unit attached to the distributor can run with the higher current that's created by running the worng coil but eventually something will die :-(
Is your 45d the electronic version or the points version ?
Posted: May 22, 2006 11:20 PM
James Stanton
6 posts
Joined: 31/05/2012 14:13:55
Location: Bath United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I have a 1980 clubman with standard Lucas electronic ignition fitted for the last ten years. Very reliable but failed to start last Monday, coil checked and working (LT and HT) Leads checked and working, rotar arm and Cap changed, module changed, still no spark.Feeds to coil checked and ok.
Today in desperation I changed the harness from the coil to distributor and it started first time! Thinking this was the problem I went for a drive, but after approx 10 minutes of driving It broke down, road side check revealed no spark again. Have I missed the obvious or is there an internal fault in the distributor? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Posted: Dec 15, 2013 05:11 PM
cng1
3 posts
Joined: 30/03/2005 09:07:52
Location: Ely United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I started out with the megajolt on my car with a carb and it was the best thing I ever did to it. Later on I swapped to a megasquirt and injected it - the upgrade was easy enough as you just unplug the megajolt and move two wires from the EDIS module and plug them into the megasquirt.
I really only injected the car because back then people said that it couldn't be done on the A-series, realistically it doesn't justify the effort so I'd suggest just going with the mappable ignition of the megajolt. If you really do want to inject a mini and have the money then the Emerald is the one to go for.
Posted: Dec 05, 2007 10:00 AM
Peter
33 posts
Joined: 12/11/2004 20:35:27
Location: Penryn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
st1
I would go for the whole minispares ST1 kit and forget about the play mini ex, they are too big a bore for the 998. Use the RC40 twin box system, this makes more power than any other system. It fits as well, which is more than can be said for the competition... You definately want the engine steady as well and fit uprated engine steady bushes as they are cheap. This transforms the mini. My 998 when it only had the ST1 kit on it was a revalation on the road, I could overtake other cars! If you can stretch to it, one of the cooper 998 12G295 heads skimmed to maintain the compression ratio will give you something like a 43% total power increase, (st1 and head), and can be bought for under £50.00 on ebay. With a 2.9:1 diff, st1 and head, you will see 60 in 10 seconds and will do 92 in third and just about 100 in fourth. 60 comes up in second as well with the ability to rev a little higher. Hillclimbing is transformed. I would urge you to fit a pertronix ignitor electronic ignition module as well, around £50 but really helps the A series rev out, no points bounce and no more fiddling by the side of the road in the rain when the points close up after a good thrashing... Adding an SW5 cam at a later date will give a staggering 60% power increase... (70 bhp not bad when starting with 44) I prefer the tuned 998 to the 1275, it revs faster and is a bit lighter as well. Cheaper insurance, even with the mods declared. Mine with all the mods above is £230.00 fully comp kept on the road at night. Kills sportpacks and injected coopers....Turbo for the 998 next....
Posted: May 06, 2005 12:46 AM
131 posts
Joined: 18/02/2005 08:56:10
Location: Leamington Spa United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Unusual Cylinder Firing
Good afternoon,
I had the exact same issue in my mini, which was due to a faulty wire into the ECU not sending a strong enough signal to the DIS module for plugs 1 and 4. This is the firing signal from the ECU.
I believe the issue will be an ignition fault, either with the unit or electrical input into it.
Regards
Posted: May 17, 2006 12:45 PM
Just Fitten LCB to 99 MPi, Bad running query
If it is running inconsistently, you should see a rise/fall on the rev counter as this is conneted to the DIS module through the ECU. More common in a ignition fault. Check the ignition cylce and if it is strong and has a good spark, it is not fuelling coorectly.
There is a possibilty that the lambda sensor was demaged during removal or another item/wire connected to the inlet manifold. My first idea would be to replace the sonsor and then work on a process of elimination if unsuccessful, however, there are less items that may cause this than the same concern on a carburretor engine.
Hope this helps.
Posted: Jul 20, 2006 05:33 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
distributor problem
Hi, I think what Tim refers to is "have you rewired the coil correctly?" You should have a plain white wire from the ignition protected feed to the fuse box (terminal 1) that goes to the "+ve" terminal of the coil. The "-ve" terminal should have a white wire with black tracer going to the flying lead on the points. (the second white/black should go to the rev counter module)
It is not unusual to new components to be faulty these days, especially condensors and rotor arms. I've had several bad condensors that only last a few miles so I always keep the old ones as emergency spares if they are known to be working. Black rotor arms these days are made with carbon to make them black, which is self defeating as they then conduct electricity rather than insulate and can cause the problem. I've started using the red variety of rotor arm but apparently the Chinese have begun counterfeiting those with poor quality imitations as well.
I'd put all the original parts back on and then as Tim says, use a mulitmeter to work out what is live and what isn't. Be careful checking the coil output though to the distributor cap as that will be fatal to the mulitmeter if you have the wrong setting.
Don't forget to check the small earth strap inside the distributor as the metal strands can snap inside the fabric cover and although they will work at low revs, when you open the throttle and the vacuum advance moves it the contact may open and you will lose the circuit.
Posted: Jan 06, 2015 04:34 PM
DJ
115 posts
Joined: 23/06/2006 17:00:57
Location: London United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Distrubutor
Hey,
I had a problem with my ignition system last week. i seemed to lose any spark at the plugs. After tracking down the problem, i have found it is a faulty part on the distrubutor. I believe it is called the distrubutor module, found on the right hand side of the distrubutor. However, i cant seem to find a replacement part for it anywhere. i ahve alooked on a couple of the mini spares websites with no joy.
I was wondering if any one could help me source this vital part!!!!
i have a 1992 mini sprite 1275.
Many thanks for your help.
Dan
Posted: Aug 06, 2008 08:55 AM
C. Barron
accidentally reversed battery polarity
The best thing to do is to disconnect the ammeter.
Reconnecting the battery the proper way is unlikely to cause any further damage to any components which have been reverse powered and failed already. As a general precaution remove all fuses from all fuse holders before reconnecting the battery. Ideally when you reconnect the battery you should have an ammeter in series with the battery. with no fuses in at all don't expect anything more than maybe 100mA of current. Your stereo may have bit the bullet if it was switched on, and the electronic ignition pack on the distributor may have failed but you will slowly have to refit the fuses one at a time and monitor what happens.
The electronic ignition module (if fitted), the dashboard instruments, stereo and possibly alternator are the most likely parts to have suffered.
Spend time checking that the burnt wires didn't cause insulation removal of other wires in the same section of loom before you begin anything else though.
Posted: Jun 10, 2006 07:25 PM
Jeffrey
10 posts
Joined: 05/03/2005 07:26:29
Location: Seattle United States
no indicators or flashers...
Its terrible to find that a previous owner has been tampering with your precious wiring! The wires connected to the relay should be: ·Light Green with a Pink tracer (to connector #30 on the relay) ·Light Green with a Brown tracer (to connector #87 on the relay) ·Green (to connector #86 on the relay) ·Black (to connector #85 on the relay) on the other end of those wires: ·the LG/Pink wire goes to the hazard switch ·the LG/Brown wire goes to the column-mounted turn signal stalk ·the Green wire goes to switched power (when ignition is on) ·the Black wire goes to earth Regarding your green and orange wire - it should be Light Green with an Orange tracer. It supplies the power for the tachometer. The White/Black wire delivers the tach signal (as you mentioned). If you have a different wire supplying power to the tach, it is likely meant for something else! Regarding the relay module over the pedal box: there are 4 relays inside, and none has anything to do with the signals/flashers, unless someone has done some massive tampering with the wiring! The module contains: ·PTC manifold heater relay ·Fuel pump relay ·Starter relay ·Main relay (controls the other three relays in the module) I hope that this will be of some help - let us know how it goes!
Posted: Apr 06, 2005 06:46 AM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
ADVICE ON Radiator upgrade PLEASE!!
The temperature sender fault usually makes the fan stay on constantly?
Anyway whilst your replacing the thermostat, refill with standard Glycol based anti-freeze instead of that fancy orange stuff that Rover were using for all it's range of cars. I've heard it's not really suitable for the A'series engine with it's cast iron cylinder head and it can cause sludge in the heater matrix too.
And if your a Twin-Point/MPi Mini owner whose electric fan is always staying on, then you may find this PDF file and information that someone posted on another Mini Forum of use: -
Twin-Point/MPi Mini Technical Bulletin PDF Link
Right the problem with your cooling fan is a known concern, the terminals become loose in the multi plug for the engine coolant temp sensor. The said switch/sensor is located in the thermostat housing. where the terminals chafe on the terminals in the sensor they build up resistance, when you switch on the ignition the engine management carries out a self test of all the sensors and checks the readings of all connections, as a fail safe if the connections to the fan/engine coolant temp sensor becomes disconnected/or high resistance is found to the connections the module switches on the cooling fan to protect the engine from overheating. Rover issued a technical bulletin I will post the part number of the modified loom repair section required this will only be available from a Rover dealership 1x YMQ105690 stagger the join i did mine behind the coolant bottle make sure that the join is waterproof fit heat shrink to both joins and then re-tape the loom Rover did not request the replacement of the temp sensor. I carried out this update to my 2000 Mini Cooper Sport and had no further trouble. The reason why it has not caused problems at the moment is because by unplugging the connector and reconnecting it temporarily cleans the connections, when the problem occurs again it has been known for this to cause bad idling concerns.
Posted: Apr 06, 2007 02:58 PM
C. Davis
41 posts
Joined: 14/08/2007 12:34:31
Location: Barton upon Humber United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Ignitor
Hello guys,
I finally purchased electronic ignition! :oD
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=33604
Now I have a J reg mini, 998 with a 45d dizzy...
This appeared to be the correct module for my dizzy, but when fitting it, it seemed a little tight, and as such I dont think my vacuum advance is going to be working well due to this.
Has anybody else found this the case?
Also, there wasnt any place to screw in the ground wire, the holes didnt seem to line up, but the little stick and the main screw lined up, so I screwed the ground wire in there.......
:oS Its working, just need to set the timing with a strobe.
Anybody else fit one of these and had this problem?
Thank you.
Posted: Mar 30, 2008 09:50 PM